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Live and Express

In search of an arecanut plantation


The route:

I have always been fascinated by plantations in general.  I had earlier driven from Bengaluru to Ooty and visited the hills with my brother, and always wanted to do mountain driving.  I have a car, which is luxurious, stylish, powerful as well as sensitive.

One of those days, couple of years down the line, I somehow wanted to go visit arecanut plantations.  I never planned where I am going to drive to, but I had the general idea that Karnataka has a lot of arecanut, and it would be worthwhile to drive around.  Generally, I did a google search and found that Malnad had a lot of arecanut (but at that point of time, I didn’t know the extent of arecanut in Sirsi district, otherwise I would have gone there!).  I also found that there are some pockets of arecanut in Chitradurga, Shimoga, Thirthahalli and then Agumbe, so I decided to drive around.

I first visited Chitradurga.  I knew that if I just went there and ask the landlords that I want to see an arecanut plantation, many would have suspicious eyes (and so did they), so I had a theory.  In real, one of my friends was doing a research, so I told these guys that I wanted to collect some statistics about arecanut.  But this guy was not convinced.  He asked me, ‘Where is your friend doing the research?’.  I said, ‘In Tamilnadu’.  He said ‘Oh, we have a big research institute down here in Davengere.  Why should we give data for a Tamilnadu institute?’.  I was laughing within myself, but kept quiet.  He then conceded and sent four guys with me in my car to show me around.  Off I went with a piece of paper, asked some questions about the growth, the no. of years it takes, the yield, the type, etc.  At that point of time, I was really interested.  And the guy started explaining enthusiastically, so it went well.  After an hour or so, I decided it’s time to call it off and came back to the office.  Now the owner was still suspicious.  He might have thought that I am a land grabber, so he started asking pointed questions.  I said I will let him know later about my details, and just left abruptly.  That was fun!   Phew!

Then I started driving towards Shimoga.  In this stretch, I found a lot of small farmers with 5 to 6 acres of arecanut plantations.  Generally I was driving along the country side at around a speed of 70 kmph.  I stopped and had Chai at some towns.  It was around noon, but the weather was pleasant, and monsoon was about to start – clouds and chilly winds.  I was kind of tired, and I found this farmer doing work alone in his plantation, so I decided to stop and say hello to him.  He was an elder person – somewhere in his 70s, and was driving his tractor in the field.  The arecanut plantations were right next to the field.  I just parked my car, and went along the field.  Huge difference between the landlord of Chitradurga, and this simple farmer of Shimoga.  He welcomed me with a friendly smile (in fact he grinned, he was so happy to see someone stop by and have a look at his plantation!), and asked me where I am from.  I said I am from Bangalore, and asked him how many acres he has.  He said 7 acres, and also said he is managing all these by himself.  I was just looking around in general but didn’t ask further questions.  Then I said goodbye to him and started driving again.

When I reached the outskirts of Thirthahalli, it was pouring like hell.  I had located a homestay near Thirthahalli, which was located in the center of arecanut plantations, so I called them from Thirthahalli and said I am coming just for a visit.  He came in his van and guided my car towards his homestay.  When I reached his homestay, he and his wife greeted me warmly and showed me around his place.  The house was built with Malnad architecture.  I told him the reason why I came.  We had a general discussion about his homestay, his visitor traffic, maintenance woes, etc.  They served me hot tea with love.  By the time I left, monsoon rain was in torrents, and I had to have my wiper at full speed, but still I insisted on driving, rather than staying back, because I loved the rain!  I started driving in the general direction towards Agumbe.

When I reached the outskirts of Agumbe, I found a narrow ghat road that was full of arecanut, and so I started driving in that road.  At one point, there came an intersection which had a road to Sringeri.  I was tempted for a moment if I should drive to Sringeri, but then I reminded myself of the goal, and consoled myself that there will be another time.  After all, Sringeri is not far off, and always accessible . So, I decided to come back to the main road of Agumbe.

It was around 5:45 PM and it was getting dark.  I went to a hotel, had some refreshments and hot tea, and then I wanted to make a call, but lo, there was no signal in my mobile phone, as it was a high mountain area.  The hotel owner helped me with his mobile, which had CellOne, and the signal was good.  After a couple of calls, I decided that its dangerous to go down to Mangalore in the dark, and so stayed back in a hotel near Agumbe bus station.  The stay was okay.

In the late morning next day, I started driving down to Mangalore.  I loved the hair-pin bends, drove through Udupi, and reached Mangalore around 4:00 PM.  I went to an office which maintains the register of all the arecanut plantations in Karnataka and had a discussion with an officer.  They told me that if I go to Sirsi, I would be lost in Arecanut, so I made a mental note to visit Sirsi next time.  Stayed in Mangalore that night, started driving to Bangalore next day morning, and reached Bangalore around 4:00 PM.

Overall, it was a fun trip.  My escapades continued and I did some more arecanut digging in Mettupalayam and Salem hills in Tamilnadu.  More on this later!

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4 thoughts on “In search of an arecanut plantation

  1. Pingback: About me | India Population

  2. Hey, nice article! Are you interested in freelance blog writing? Industry is eco-landscaping, I think you might enjoy that from the way you write! Cheers 🙂

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